Saturday, July 3, 2010

Garlic and Sapphires : The Secret Life of a Critic in Disguise



Fans of Tender at the Bone and Comfort Me with Apples know that Ruth Reichl is a wonderful memoirist--a funny, poignant, and candid storyteller whose books contain a happy mix of memories, recipes, and personal revelations.

Amazon.com Interview
We chewed the fat with Ruth. Read our interview.
What they might not fully appreciate is that Reichl is an absolute marvel when it comes to writing about food--she can describe a dish in such satisfying detail that it becomes unnecessary for readers to eat. In her third memoir, Garlic and Sapphires: The Secret Life of a Critic in Disguise, Reichl focuses on her life as a food critic, dishing up a feast of fabulous meals enjoyed during her tenure at The New York Times. As a critic, Reichl was determined to review the "true" nature of each restaurant she visited, so she often dined incognito--each chapter of her book highlights a new disguise, a different restaurant (including the original reviews from the Times), and a fresh culinary adventure. Garlic and Sapphires is another delicious and delightful book, sure to satisfy Reichl's foodie fans and leave admirerers looking forward to her next book, hopefully about her life with Gourmet.
- Daphne Durham, Amazon.com

I'm a pretty die-hard "foodie" and I love to read books about food and travel (see some of my other reviews). This book was recommended to me by a friend, and I have to say I was skeptical at first because of the lack of "adventure" I assumed it would have. (How "adventurou s was a book by the editor at the NY Times likely to be, after all...). And, I was right - if you compare this book to something by Anthony Bourdain or Bill Buford it does lack "adventure" . But what it does have (and what I really enjoyed) was wonderfully-written observations on human nature; how we respond to one another based on our perceptions. There were sections that made me laugh out loud because of the ridiculous scenarios Ms. Reichl found herself in at times, and other sections that were heartwarming and familial. The book is really more of a memoir, and unlike most memoirs, I enjoyed it immensely.

Yes, there are wonderful descriptions of food, and of the meals Ms. Reichl was fortunate enough to enjoy during her tenure at the NYT. She reveals a very interesting and new insight into not only the life of a food critic (and the inevitable "food politics" involved) but also the day-to-day workings of the "front of house" in many of New York's most famous restaurants.

Bottom line, I don't think you have to be a foodie to enjoy this book. Ms. Reichl has a smooth and engaging style, and a perceptive ability to capture many nuances of human interaction that are missed by most other authors in this subject area. A great book for a long train, plane, or boat ride, or a weekend getaway.
- B. Christensen, Amazon.com


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